Dinner and a (Over-the-Top) Show

At El Tucán, you come for the meal, but stay for the entertainment

At El Tucán, you come for the meal, but stay for the entertainment

By Kylie Wang

There’s a giant ring hanging from the ceiling and there’s a woman in it. Well, not exactly in it, but moving through it, around it, hanging from it, etc. She lands gracefully on a small stage as the thumping sounds of a remixed pop song – courtesy of an in-house DJ – come to a halt and applause fills the room. Fifteen minutes later, three more women appear, this time in nude-colored bodysuits and transparent high-necked coats, their arms stuck through the chests and necks of plastic mannequin heads. They perform a sultry dance number, strutting between tables, the translucent heads eyeing the audience as they swivel back and forth at the command of the dancers.

This is El Tucán, where tigers prowl on wraparound video screens and where every night (Wednesday through Saturday) there is a show. You come for a meal and stay for the performances. Roughly every 15 to 30 minutes there’s a new one, and they get wilder and ever more intense as the night goes on. By closing time at 3 am, guests are dancing on tables under the refracted lights of a disco ball no matter what day of the week it is.

This is a place to escape, a place to bring a friend to relax and be amused after a day of client meetings and deal negotiations. Just don’t forget your reservation or you will be turned away.

Meanwhile, there is food. The eclectic menu focuses on sushi but stretches to include things like empanadas and truffle mac & cheese. Variety is, after all, the spice of life, and Michelin-starred Chef Julien Jouhannaud is not afraid of a good dose.

The imperial Wagyu beef sliders go way beyond a typical burger, with Manchego cheese, caramelized onions, quail egg, and a shishito pepper on top. The aged Manchego is a zesty counterbalance to the sweetness of the onions, while the quail egg adds texture and a little extra boost – quail eggs, it turns out, provide more protein by weight than chicken eggs and double the iron.

Pursuing the protein vein, the teriyaki chicken is a good choice, though not as inventive as the sliders. The strip of chicken, cut into bite-size portions, is a tender, soft pillow on a bed of teriyaki sauce that has neither of the usual pitfalls – neither too sweet or too salty.

For sushi, the Kobe roll is El Tucán’s signature dish. Torched at the table, dusted with grated black truffle, and combining both shrimp tempura and Wagyu beef, it’s a dish that manages to embody the restaurant’s vibrant and overtly decadent atmosphere.

El Tucán also boasts a raw bar, sushi & sashimi platters, a chef’s omakase menu, and six different kinds of sake. The cocktails are diverse, with interesting twists. The “Miami Mule” comes with the surprising addition of cinnamon syrup, making the traditional cocktail with a ginger bite a little sweeter. The “She Is Hot and Green” combines Belvedere vodka with cucumber juice, ginger, lemon, and the striking addition of wasabi.

Is there similar food to be had in Miami? Sure. Is there a more unique dining experience? Unlikely.

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