Miami-based Desolas Mezcal is betting on the growing U.S. market for the Mexican liquor
There are typically two types of mezcal drinkers. The first is the connoisseur who loves and appreciates the liquor’s unique smoky flavor. The second is the spring break tourist in Mexico who undoubtedly ends up hunched over the toilet of their hotel bathroom. Desolas Mezcal is looking to market to a third type of mezcal drinker: the person who doesn’t drink mezcal.
Most people who don’t like mezcal dislike it for its signature smoky taste. However, Desolas is a different type of mezcal, and what makes the Miami-based brand different from other mezcals boils – or rather distills – down to two main factors: its ingredients and its production process.
Most mezcals – 80 to 90 percent – are made with Esapdin agave. Producers favor Esapdin agave for its high sugar content and easy cultivation. However, Desolas uses Salmiana agave specifically grown in the San Luis Potosi region of Mexico. Taking up to 25 years to reach maturation, Salmiana agave not only takes much longer to grow but also produces a low yield of liquid compared to its size. Despite the challenges associated with Salmiana agave, founder and CEO GG Mirvis says she was drawn to Salmiana agave for its crisp, herbal flavor.
Another factor that contributes to Desolas’ unique taste is its distillation process. With most mezcals, the piña (the heart of the agave plant) is roasted in underground pits. That is what gives mezcal its signature smoky taste. However, Desolas roasts its agave in above-ground ovens called “hornos;” this results is a liquor with a more refreshing flavor.
Mirvis says she’s proud to have created a product that not only introduces variety to the current market but also celebrates mezcaleros from San Luis Potosi and its family traditions. “San Luis Potosi was one of the original places to produce lots of mezcal,” she says. “Mezcal production in San Luis Potosi once thrived, but the Mexican Revolution led to the decline of this tradition as haciendas were destroyed. Today, some haciendas aim to revive it, but they face challenges due to outdated equipment and limited funds. Desolas Mezcal stands out, as it comes from a preserved factory, crafted by a Maestro Mezcalero with a century-old family tradition.”
Although the brand is young, Mirvis is excited about the company’s growth from its inception in February 2020 to now. She attributes part of this to the growing popularity of agave-based spirits (tequila and mezcal) in the United States. According to the International Wine and Spirits Record (IWSR), in 2022 Americans spent more on agave-based spirits than on U.S. whiskey, making agave-based spirits the second most purchased spirit by value in the United States. The IWSR estimates that in 2024, agave-based spirits could supplant vodka, the number one contender.
On a company rather than industry-wide level, Mirvis says that Desolas has made strong gains within the last year, “Desolas has had strong growth in existing markets in 2023 [Florida, New York, California, Texas] and with its entry momentum in several new markets [Georgia, Colorado, Canada] its case volume has increased approximately 50% from 2022.”
The Mexican-made mezcal for the Miami-based company is continuing to integrate itself into the U.S. liquor market. The brand recently partnered with the steakhouse chain Fogo de Chão to create a cocktail that will be sold at its locations in California, Texas, New York, and, of course, Florida. For now, Desolas sells in the United States and Canada, but Mirivis says the company has its sights set on London and the European market next.
If you’re in Miami, you can find Desolas at popular bars like Cafe La Trova, Tropezón, and Club Space.
