The Spanish islands off the coast of North Africa are an alluring place to spend time – and to invest
By Yousra Benkirane
While it’s well-known that it was a Spanish expedition that “discovered” the Americas while searching for a sea route to the Indies, a lesser-known fact is that the Canary Islands were the last port of call for the Niña, Pinta, and Santa Maria. It was here that Columbus stopped to stock up on pigs, sheep, goats, and dogs from the islands – some of the first domesticated animals to reach the Americas – as well as the seed stock for future sugar and banana plantations in the New World. Now, the islands are positioning themselves as a business destination, adding incentives and programs to attract U.S. businesses and investment back to the islands. For that reason, we decided to visit the volcanic Spanish archipelago, and to understand why businesses would want to locate here instead of somewhere in mainland Spain.
The sun hung low in the sky as our plane touched down on the island of Gran Canaria, where about 40 percent of the population of two million live (another 43 percent live in the other major island, Tenerife). From Miami, there are direct flights to Madrid, then a quick two-hour connecting flight to the capital city of Las Palmas. We had only 48 hours to explore this island gem, with a jam-packed itinerary that promised to take us through time and taste.
For accommodations, we stayed at the Lopesan Costa Meloneras Resort Spa & Casino, located in the south of Gran Canaria, about a 20-minute drive from the airport. In contrast to the colonial sections of the island, the design elements here are sleek and contemporary, with splendid views of the sea. The unique aspect of the resort was its spa, with 12 differently themed rooms. There was a Himalayan salt room where the walls were made of Himalayan salt and crystals were scattered around to create a cleansing breathing environment. The womb room, meanwhile, was dimly lit and lined with waterbeds meant to imitate the eponymous environment. The resort also offers a casino, six outdoor pools, three on-site restaurants, and eight large conference rooms for business meetings. In the evening, guests are serenaded by a local band playing beside the infinity pool.
The next morning, our first stop to explore the island was the small town of Arucas (population 37,000), just seven miles northwest of Las Palmas. You could spend the whole day in Arucas, there is so much to see – and to eat. We started with the Canarian hacienda “La ReKompensa,” a banana plantation that doubles as a museum. Here, surrounded by row upon row of banana plants, we learned about the island’s thriving banana industry, which has been shaping the landscape for generations. We discovered the intricate process of banana cultivation, from planting to harvesting. Our guide (and banana connoisseur) enthusiastically took us through the entire cycle and how the island’s unique microclimate plays a crucial role in producing an exceptionally sweet banana variety.
With an annual production of around 1.4 million tons, the Canary Islands are the ninth-largest producer of bananas in the world. While their production is dwarfed by the world’s major banana producers (India, Ecuador, Brazil, and China), the sweet Canarian banana is popular in Europe; most are exported to mainland Spain and then distributed from there. Part of the tour included sampling banana-based products like banana jams dribbled on slivers of local cheeses. I took a few jars of banana jam while others opted for the banana wine.
Next came the historical Arucas Rum Distillery, where time and indulgence blend seamlessly. We learned about the island’s deep-rooted connection to sugarcane, dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries when the islands’ economy largely depended on its production. Gran Canaria had vast sugar plantations well before the first commercial plantations in Brazil and the Caribbean. By the 18th century, sugar exports from these New World powerhouses dominated European markets and the local industry declined.
The Arehucas rum factory in Arucas– the oldest continually operating rum distillery in Europe – has been producing rum from sugarcane since 1884. The rum is produced in copper stills and aged for 10 to 40 years in oak barrels. Our guide explained the intricacies of rum production, from the distillation process to the art of blending, all of which you can see as you tour the grounds. And, of course, we couldn’t leave without sampling a few of their finest products.
Afterwords, we strolled (or stumbled, after a few glasses of rum) through the old quarter of the town to the imposing Church of San Juan Bautista, with its neo-Gothic spires rising among colorful cafes and shops. For lunch, we indulged in traditional Canarian cuisine at a local eatery, savoring papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo sauce and fresh seafood. The flavors were a testament to the island’s fusion of Spanish, African, and indigenous Guanche influences.
After lunch, our tour continued with a visit to the Vegueta neighborhood of Las Palmas, a UNESCO World Heritage site preserving Gran Canaria’s colonial past. The cobbled streets led past grand mansions, museums, and the historic Casa de Colón, where Christopher Columbus stayed during his visit. We continued through picturesque plazas with intricate wooden balconies and colorful facades, an architectural reflection of the island’s ability to preserve history.
From there, we walked to the Canteras neighborhood, where the popular Las Canteras beach lies. The bustling city-center location was a complete contrast to the calm waters and golden sands stretching for miles. At Las Canteras beach, there’s warm weather all year round, while its natural offshore lava reef acts as a wavebreak and protects the sand.
For dinner, we headed to the Michelin-starred restaurant La Aquarela. The restaurant places a strong emphasis on locally sourced ingredients, with 85 percent of their products sourced from the Canary Islands, resulting in a menu that exudes both innovation and local flavors. We indulged in a seven-course culinary journey accompanied by curated wine pairings. The dishes were imaginative and beautifully presented. One highlight was Trashumancia, a fried sheep cheese topped with mojo picon, a Canarian red pepper sauce that bursts with flavor. The wine pairings focused on local wines from the islands.
We began the next (our last) day on the island with wine as well. We visited a winery on the north side of the island on an estate called Finca Escudero, a hidden gem in Santa Brigida. The sprawling estate features 4,000 grapevines, a botanical garden with exotic plants, and an olive grove. It also offers private wine and olive oil tastings throughout the week. The century-old family home on the estate displayed a fusion of Moorish and Spanish influences.
After sampling wines, local cheeses, and olive oil, we drove toward the island’s volcanic mountains and the village of Tejeda, perched on the edge of a vast caldera, a cauldron-like hollow left by a once-active volcano. A short hike offered panoramic views of the rugged landscape, with terraced fields clinging to the steep slopes. As we reached the highest point of the hills surrounding the caldera, we were greeted by the sight of Roque Nublo, a towering volcanic monolith that has become a landmark of the island.
After lunch, we returned to the hotel to enjoy its amenities before heading home on an early morning flight to Madrid. The two days had been a whirlwind of experiences, albeit limited to Gran Canaria. The natural allure of these islands, with their stunning landscapes and temperate climate, bely their proximity to both Europe and Africa – a strategic location for companies looking to expand their reach into these markets. Among other advantages, the government is now offering a slew of investment incentives for companies to relocate, including tax breaks, free trade zones, and subsidiaries for local hires, along with the convenience of a modern highway system, eight airports, and a robust modern port in Las Palmas. But you had us at the colonial architecture, the banana plantations, and the rum.
